Morocco is getting easier. At least that is what I tell myself. Everyday I seem to learn something new and it helps with understanding this world I am living in.
Language is getting a little better but to be honest I know now by the time I leave I won't even be close to fluent. As a first language Moroccan Arabic is very difficult. Not only that I know I am not great at acquiring languages. One thing that encourages me is that I can do just about anything I need to do to survive but equally on the other side I have a really hard time with detail things. For example, I can tell you that I like something or something isn't good but I cannot really describe why. I really hoped to be at a higher level of language then I am. I put in the time and study a little each day and use it as much as I can but one thing that really hurts me with language is I am naturally extremely shy. I normally won't say much unless I know you pretty well.
So advice to those who are thinking about PC or trying to learn a new language you need to know if you are shy push yourself. It not only hurts your language but also your ability to have friends in country. It funny I still hear a lot about a past volunteer. Everywhere in town I go I hear things about she was the best volunteer and she did this and that. She made an impact here. I don't know her but I am sure that she was an extrovert. I have noticed here that if you are an extrovert the PC experience tends to come a little easier. I think thats why I have struggled up to this point. Now I have gotten to the point where I just don't care what people think. I just be try to be myself in every situation. (It sounds easier then it is trust me.) Confidence and being a little more care free tends to make my experience a little more enjoyable than it would be otherwise. These are things I wish I had discovered before I came. Maybe now I can do something about it.
This is a shout out to my Uncle Glenn and Aunt Barb for sending us this amazing package! We love getting packages and feel loved when we do get them. Also I want to thank Mom, Dad, Rachel, Shannon, Robin, Don, Ralph and Helen for the packages and anybody else who has sent us cards, notes and packages in the past! We love you all and are glad to have people that care so much about us!
ssalamu 3lekum (Peace be upon you.)
Here is a rare look at Tanie working on a poster for the health tour that we helped with. I am so proud of her and the work she is doing here in Morocco. She is impacting so many women and kids' lives it is amazing. tbarka llah lik! (The blessing of God upon you!)
-Went to a bookshop asking for a magazine that has Darjia (Moroccan Arabic) in it. I wanted to practice Arabic script but don't know Foosha (Modern Standard Arabic). The man told me behind the counter that both were the same. So he gave me a magazine that was in Foosha but I didn't understand it. He looks at me dumbfounded.
-Women waiting by the hospital to visit or hear news of their loved one.
-Just saw a Moroccan man with a shirt with Jesus on the cross. The irony of it is amusing to me.
-Tourists with maps, khaki shorts, cameras and hip bags. If I were a thief I would go for them first.
-Two women with bags three times larger than their head on top of their head without using their hands. I can't help but stare.
-A dirty horse that seems overworked by pulling carriages then a homeless man comes up and hits it hard in the nose. The horse kicks up.
-Teenage girls arm in arm smiling and talking and enjoying the day.
-Old woman hobbling down the road. She looks lost and alone and lines on her face remind me of looking at roads on a map of Morocco.
-Just saw a guy who was homeless who looked exactly like Jack Sparrow. It pretty much made my day.
-A group of 50 tourists with a Moroccan tour guide with a sign held up directing on where to go. It is humiliating and embarrassing. Like they didn't stand out before.
-Sitting and watching for two hours now I feel dizzy from all the movement. Maybe it's time to leave.
After being in Morocco for a year it has been interesting watching tourists come here and spend their vacation here. After a while I started noticing some trends. Sometimes I am shocked by some things that I see and other times I laugh. These things will help you blend in a little better even though you never really will blend in. I still stick out like a sore thumb but I feel like I am getting noticed far less than I used to. I feel like I have preface this by saying that I don't believe every tourist does this just say few but I still think it is worth sharing. I plead with you be sensitive to the culture and use your common sense.
What Not To Wear - A PCV's Take On Tourists
Fanny Packs - Beside these being completely out of style nothing says tourist more than a fanny pack. If you like the convenience of one of these than that's your deal but what do you need to take with you when you walk-about the city? Is it so much that you need to take a huge sack on your stomach. Just put what you need in your pockets. It really makes you stand out much less.
Speedo's - Men when you are on the beach do not wear these. This might be popular on European beaches but it is shocking to me to see men wear these on the beach. Plus I don't want to see your man piece. It's gross. It makes it even worse when you have a man who is 100 pounds over weight wearing one of these. No one wants to see this especially a conservative Muslim community.
Djellabas Or Caftans - In Marrakesh I have seen tourists wearing djellabas/ Caftans. This within itself isn't the issue. The issue is when people don't wear them correctly. Did you know that djellabas/ Caftans are meant to go over clothes much like a long coat would. It is super embarrassing when you see that they have nothing underneath these things. I have seen Morocans in a fit of laughter because of it and I have to admit that I just shook my head. But to be honest it is very rare (unless you are wearing them to big holidays or weddings) to see someone wearing them out on the town that are tourists. The people of Morocco are becoming more and more modern. This means you can dress this way too but just use common sense.
Short Skirts, Or Shirts That Show Cleavage - This is mostly for the ladies. I see so many women that wear these things and they get so much unwanted attention that it's crazy. Harassment can be pretty bad on most days but if they see someone with these kind of clothes most Moroccan men don't know what do with themselves. Do your part to not get this attention by using your head to dress more conservatively. The locals will appreciate it. Also I have heard people say, "Well some Moroccans wear swanky clothes why can't I?" My response to that is, "You can." but keep in mind that you stand out already and this is mostly true only in big cities. Trust me it might feel good to be noticed for the first night but when men start saying things like, "How much(implying for sex)?" or " I want to have sex with you" you might start think otherwise about what you are wearing. If Moroccan women get comments like that they know how to handle themselves or at least tolerate it (even though it's sad to see any harassment, women should be able to express themselves without being ogled at or spoken to like property!) but tourists are normally not use to that level of harassment and it might be too much.
Extras: Huge cameras, camping clothes, etc.
What do you think? Anything else that I missed and should be mentioned?
Over the last year I have come across many misconceptions about America's from Moroccans. I think it is interesting to find what some people believe about American's and why exactly they believe what they do. Obviously these opinions might not represent all of Morocco but it is interesting nonetheless. Today I will highlight just two.
Americans just have money and we don't have to work for it.
This came about when I had a conversation with a few PCV's. We are all speaking about money in Morocco and how little it costs to live here by American standards. Then one of the volunteer said, "There are people in my site who believe that we just have money and we don't have to work for it." I ask myself why do they think this is? Is it all the western movies on "Fox Movies" where they see Americans just siting around fighting but they have huge mansions, expensive cars, and huge wardrobe. In these movies it seems no one has jobs we all just mess about all day. I guess if that's the only time you ever hear about American's you might think that this is true. It is just an interesting point of view but obviously a false one.
I hope to highlight more of these in the future. Again I want to portray I do not think that this is what the majority believe. Everyone is an individual and can have their say. I just hear things like this from time to time and I think that you would think this would be interesting. I hope you enjoy! Thanks for reading!
Disclamer: This is forward and it's my opinion. So in other words this post is probably incorrect and you need to take it with a grain of salt. :)
I read several blogs about PCV's and I have noticed a trend in several of them. I have noticed that everyone has their own preconceived notion of what a Peace Corps volunteer actually is. When some people think of a Peace Corps volunteer they think of a person in the middle of Africa living off of rice and beans in a mud hut wearing back packing clothes able to speak the language fluently, no electricity or running water, listening to the BBC is the extent of entertainment, there is not another volunteer within 50 miles, people around have AIDS and you are there to educate people about simple preventive measures on how not to get the disease, ideas of changing the world, living a simple life, living off of little money, roughing it, having an adventure, and challenging yourself.
When it comes down to it there are only three things that define a PCV:
-Helping the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women.
-Helping promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served.
-Helping promote a better understanding of other people on the part of Americans.
These are the things that define us as volunteers. Even here in Morocco as volunteers we all have had some of these preconceived notions of what a PCV might be like. Are we not volunteers if have running water and electricity? Are we not volunteers if we cannot speak the language fluently? No, honestly being a volunteer is what you make it. Are you working for peace and not division? Are you living in a foreign country? Are you trying to build a community and empower people? Are you working hard to accomplish the three goals? Have you swore in as a PCV? Awesome, then you are a PCV and the rest is personal choice.
I know of PCV's (very few) who have this smug attitude because they live in the middle of nowhere and they don't have electricity or running water and they come to another site that does sometimes conversation can become, "Wow, you're living in the "Posh Corps" or, "This is not Peace Corps". So? What's the point here? Is it that we cannot help others or volunteer our time if we have an oven, a refrigerator or that we can buy cheese here in site? Also, things like if you are not fasting during Ramadan, going to weddings every other weekend, working three weeks of summer camp when you only have to work one, wearing a headscarf in site, not having a computer in site, wana (internet) stick doesn't work in site, don't have enough transport, can't get veggies until souq (market) day, can't drink the water without purifying/ boiling it, etc. become contests of "I am roughing it more than you" hence I am a better PCV or I am having a better/more genuine experience than you. This does not need to be. Community among PCV's is just as important as community among your host country nationals. We are all trying the best we can.
Peace Corps is not about about having lack of things. Truthfully I live better here then I did in America money wise. I don't have to pay for insurance, my housing, we get money back for things like job related travel, and we get a bit of cash each month to spend. Not to mention that I am married so we get to pool our money together so we can actually save money. My point is that a volunteer can be exactly what I described above or it can be the exact opposite. Case in point:
So which of these people are PCV's? Obviously both. For those looking to job the Peace Corps know that perceptions of that you think it is going to be is probably going to be the direct opposite of what it turns out to be. It turned out that way for me.
To the "Anonymous" who decided to call me all kinds of things. First of all if you are going to criticize someone give me your full name! You would never ever say the things that you did if you were to my face. Who has the time to go around to random blogs and just spread hate. Apparently were a PCV in 87-89 what you are doing is the opposite of an RPCV should be doing. I am ashamed to see the bitterness that is steaming from you. I just can't believe this hatred that you are spreading. Just the way that sent me four Anonymous posts is very cowardly. Anonymous I am a person and again if you are an RPCV our government and the PC would be very ashamed of you. Hsuma alik (If you were an RPCV from Morocco then you understand that).
Why am I bringing this out to the open? I am doing this to defend myself and to show others why I am trying to do with this blog. Just to clarify, I am trying to get potential PCV's to understand that life in the PC isn't easy and I wanted to show my audience what life here in Morocco is really like. I know I wish I would have found a blog like this back in the day before I came to PC so I know what my experience here might be like. I know this is not everyones experience but this is my experience! I am not whining, far from it, I love this place. You don't even know me or how I think so don't make assumptions. Email me and try to understand where I coming from.
Another thing how am I being ignorant of the "Moroccan culture and religion"? Sure I don't know everything but I am trying. I am not Muslim, if someone expects me to change religions and give up my own beliefs because I travel (and or live) in another country they are backwards. Islam is a beautiful religion but its not my religion. Cultural exchange means them trying to understand me with me trying to understand them. In other words it's part of my job. Blogging within itself is part of goal 3. You should know what that is. I want the people back at home to understand Moroccans a little better as well. If you need a refresher on the three goals take a look here on the PC website. Our job is in three parts, not just giving the HCN skills. Check it out.
Also you criticizing my post on Marrakesh about money. I am not a rich American. If you knew anything about PC you would know they give you a little money to volunteer. So you would know that a taxi ride that is normally 5d goes up to 50 or 100d's is a huge deal. I am not spending money all over the place because I have it. I am blending into the culture because any Moroccan would fight to the death for a taxi price like that. I just assume that people should treat everyone with respect. I don't think thats too much too much to ask for. It happens in every other place in Morocco just not Marrakesh (most of the time).
I better finish here. I was just disgusted by the emails you sent me and I needed to defend myself. I am not perfect and don't claim to be but to everyone out there know that I am trying the best I can and that I am still understanding daily about my host country nationals and myself. I am sorry if my posts came across as whiny or complaining this is not what I wanted to do. In turn I just wanted to give truthful blog posts that help people understand the PCV experience a little more. I hope that this blog has done that.